Beacon Face & Dermatology Clinic Newsletter, Nov 2012
Unsure of the right destination for your cosmetic treatment?
With the RIGHT combination of peptides & Lactic acid and the POWER of Retinol: We can deliver positive aging products that REALLY work to reduce wrinkles.
Women all over the world spend millions of euro’s each year on creams and lotions that promise to banish wrinkles or slow down the aging process.But according to the American Academy of Dermatology, there isn’t sufficient evidence to show any of them actually work.
However, there are in fact four essential ingredients commonly listed to look out for in their active role in directly decreasing the signs of aging –
They include:
- Peptides
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
- Retinol
- Some Antioxidants
Dr Kambiz Golchin, our specialist Cosmetic and ENT surgeon here at Beacon Face and Dermatology tells us that it can be extremely difficult for patients to understand which skincare is right for their skin; it’s hard to know which works, and which doesn’t. Unfortunately there is overabundance of products and ingredients that claim to achieve certain results and this can be very misleading to patients As we age, our skin produces less collagen and elastin, becoming thinner; causing it to sag and develop fine lines.
Peptides are a protein that can stimulate new cells to grow and help skin cells to heal, and are found in dozens of products currently on the market.
Dr Kambiz Golchin highlights that peptides work by stimulating the replacement of collagen, elastin, and other components that suffer during aging. The concern is that peptides are large molecules, and depending on their formulation and the skin surface, they may not be able to penetrate deeply enough to achieve their effect. Peptides should be primarily considered good for hydrating the skin when they are found in moisturizers, which, in turn, can make lines less noticeable.
Alpha-hydroxy acids, on the other hand, are natural ingredients that come from fruits and milk sugars commonly used as exfoliants which are commonly used for getting rid of dead skin cells, allowing new cells to grow, allowing the deeper layer of the skin to come to surface faster — which speeds up the cycle of skin turnover.
There are three main acids –
- lactic acids – Lactic acid which comes from sour milk, helps remove dead skin cells, subsequently adding certain brightness to the skin.
- glycolic acids – Glycolic acid, from sugar cane, can slightly help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, which ultimately make the skin, appear smoother and tighter.
- citric acid – Retinol, a natural form of vitamin A found in a number of over-the-counter skin creams, boosts the thickness and elasticity of the skin and is seen as reliable method for decreasing signs of aging.
Dr Golchin would highlight the care pregnant women should have in avoiding using retinol, or any form of vitamin A, because it may increase the risk of birth defects.
Antioxidants are widely known to fight internal cell damage from free radicals in the environment. These free radicals can injure our skin cells, increase inflammation, and increase the risk of cancer, Antioxidants have been found to have positive aging benefits – but only in the right formulation.
Substances with antioxidant properties include beta-carotene, lycopene, selenium, and vitamins A, C and E, according to the National Institutes of Health. These and other antioxidants are found in many foods, including fruits, vegetables, nuts, and some meats, with many supplements also available.
Dr Golchin states that there are antioxidants that are effective; however, it’s the formulation of the antioxidants that is critical in there effective delivery. Primarily it is Vitamins C and E that are the most commonly used. At Beacon Face and Dermatology we can advise you.